Unlike the sprawling, multi-province regions of the south, the Principality of Asturias is a single-province community. Yet, within its compact borders, it holds an astonishing density of towering limestone peaks, deep-forested valleys, dramatic ocean cliffs, and a rich Celtic heritage. For travelers seeking breathtaking nature, historical gravitas, and some of the heartiest food in Europe, Asturias is an unmissable frontier.
1. The Urban Anchors: Elegant Oviedo and Maritime Gijón
Though Asturias is defined by its wild landscapes, it is anchored by two highly distinct and fascinating cities that perfectly balance the region's historical and modern identities.
Oviedo: The Historic Capital
As the political capital of the region, Oviedo is a city of undeniable elegance, famous for its impeccably clean, pedestrian-friendly streets and its collection of statues scattered throughout the historic center. The city is a living museum of Asturian Pre-Romanesque architecture—a unique, 9th-century building style that predates the great Romanesque and Gothic movements of Europe. Monuments like Santa MarÃa del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, perched on the rolling green hills just outside the city, are pristine UNESCO World Heritage sites that look like they belong in a medieval fantasy novel.
Gijón: The Ocean's Gateway
Just a short drive to the north lies Gijón, the largest city in Asturias. Unlike aristocratic Oviedo, Gijón is a working-class, maritime powerhouse with a vibrant, salty soul. Hugging the coastline, it features sweeping crescent beaches like Playa de San Lorenzo, where surfers brave the cold Cantabrian waves and locals stroll along the extensive seaside promenade, rain or shine.
2. The Cradle of Spain: Covadonga and the Picos de Europa
You cannot understand Spanish history without understanding Asturias. There is a famous local saying: "Asturias is Spain, and the rest is conquered land."
This immense pride stems from the Battle of Covadonga in 722 AD. When the Moorish armies conquered almost the entirety of the Iberian Peninsula, a small band of Christian fighters, led by a nobleman named Pelagius (Don Pelayo), retreated into the impenetrable Asturian mountains. In the steep, narrow valley of Covadonga, they successfully ambushed and defeated the Umayyad forces. This momentous victory marked the official beginning of the Reconquista—the 770-year campaign by Christian kingdoms to reclaim the peninsula.
Today, the Sanctuary of Covadonga, featuring a holy cave carved into a waterfall-draped cliffside and a spectacular pink-stone basilica, serves as the spiritual gateway to the Picos de Europa National Park. This jagged, limestone mountain range offers some of the most dramatic alpine scenery in Europe, home to deep gorges, crystalline glacial lakes (the Lagos de Covadonga), and rare wildlife like the Cantabrian brown bear.
3. The Art of Liquid Gold: Asturian Cider Culture
If wine is the blood of the rest of Spain, sidra (natural apple cider) is the lifeblood of Asturias. However, Asturian cider is completely unlike the sweet, carbonated beverages found in the UK or the US. It is tart, cloudy, still, and fiercely traditional.
The true magic of Asturian cider lies in how it is served. Because the cider lacks artificial carbonation, it must be aerated manually to release its flavor and aroma. This is achieved through the art of escanciar. Waiters in traditional sidrerÃas (cider houses) hold the bottle high above their heads and pour a thin stream of cider into a wide glass held below their knees.
You are only served a small splash at a time—known as a culÃn—which must be consumed in one gulp before the aeration dissipates. Historically, the last few drops were poured onto the wood-shavings covering the floor to "give back to the earth" and to clean the rim of the shared glass, making a night out in a sidrerÃa a loud, sticky, and incredibly communal experience.
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| Un profesional escancia un culÃn de sidra.Turismo de Asturias |
4. A Gastronomy Built for the Mountains
Asturian cuisine is not designed for counting calories; it is designed to fuel farmers, miners, and mountaineers through damp, freezing winters. It is heavy, complex, and deeply comforting.
La Fabada Asturiana
The undisputed king of the regional kitchen is the Fabada. This rich, slow-cooked bean stew revolves around fabes—large, buttery white beans native to the region. The beans are simmered for hours with a holy trinity of smoked meats collectively known as the compango: asturian chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and cured pork belly.
The Cave-Aged Cheeses
Asturias is often called the "Land of Cheeses," producing over 40 distinct artisanal varieties. The most infamous is Queso de Cabrales, an intensely pungent, spicy blue cheese made from a blend of cow, sheep, and goat's milk. The wheels are carried deep into natural limestone caves in the Picos de Europa, where the cold, humid drafts cultivate the penicillin mold over several months, resulting in one of the strongest blue cheeses in the world.
5. Hidden Beaches and Roaring Cliffs
Beyond the mountains, the Asturian coastline hides geographic anomalies that beggar belief. The cliffs are battered by such intense wave action that the ocean has carved out bufones—natural blowholes driven through the coastal rock. During high swells, sea water shoots dozens of meters into the air like marine geysers.
Even more surreal is the Playa de Gulpiyuri, a fully functioning beach located entirely inland, surrounded by green meadows. The ocean waters flow into a sunken sinkhole through a network of underground caves, creating a tidal, white-sand beach hidden 100 meters away from the actual coast.
Final Thoughts for the Traveler
Asturias is an antidote to the over-commercialized tourist traps of southern Europe. It demands a different pace. It asks you to pack a raincoat, bring sturdy hiking boots, and embrace the wild elements. In return, it offers a raw, unspoiled authenticity. From pouring cider in a bustling Oviedo tavern to standing in the silent, mist-covered peaks of Covadonga, this northern powerhouse is a paradise waiting to be explored.
